Nuts & bolts:
Lodging:
Riding Fool Hostel - Owner Jeremy is knowledgable of local trails and very friendly. Accomodations were affordable and very nice as was our overall stay. We can't recommend enough! Bunks for singles and private rooms for couples available.
2705 Dunsmuir, Cumberland, BC, V0R 1S0
Phone: 1-888-313-FOOL, Fax: (250) 336-8253, website
Bike Repair:
Dodge City Cycles - These guys know their chain ring from their head tube.
Dodge City Cycles 2705 Dunsmuir Ave Cumberland, BC 250-336-2200 website
Biking Log Hornby Island Trails
08/17/03
By Dana Farnsworth, Outdoor Travels
For my wife Kelli and my first ride in British Columbia, we decided to ride the trail system of Hornby Island. Our hostel owner and local riding guru, Jeremy, recommended it to us for great cross-country trails. We were also very excited about the modes of transportation we were going to have to utilize just to get there.
After loading up our car with our bikes and gear, we were off! We headed south from Cumberland on 19 towards the Buckley Bay Ferry terminal, where we would park our car and take the first of two ferries required to get to Hornby Island. The cost for two round trip tickets (without a car) was $20 Canadian. After a 10-15 minute ferry ride to Denman Island, our plan was to ride across the island to the Hornby Island Ferry terminal. It looked easy enough on the map we had been given. I hadn’t anticipated what we actually did experience. In my mind, I was envisioning a short and easy ride across Denman Island.
As we exited the ferry, we were immediately greeted with a long and steep climb up to Denman Road. I waited at the top of hill for Kelli. I probably could write an entire log on our road riding on Denman – so in the interest of being succinct, I’ll try to keep this part as brief as possible. There are two routes that one can take from the Vancouver Island Ferry Terminal across Denman Island to the Hornby Island Ferry Terminal. Each route is approximately 8 miles or about 7 more miles than I had expected. The traffic is relatively light and the scenery at times can be sublime. One route will take you along the northeast coast of Denman (where we spotted a Bald Eagle in flight) and the other (our first route) meanders through beautiful forested areas. Both possess a few hills to climb up and coast down – some fairly strenuous. After an enjoyable ride, we arrived at the Hornby terminal with enough time for the ever-hungry Kelli to purchase a very messy taco from a little stand near the terminal.
After another 10 – 15 minute ferry ride, we arrived on Hornby Island, followed Jeremy’s instructions and began looking for Mount Road. What was next? You guessed it – a long, steep climb up Mount Road. When Kelli finished pushing her bike to the top (which is recognized by its cul-de-sac), she checked her computer and informed me that the climb was almost a mile. I was beginning to get a little tired of this climbing stuff! We were faced with several choices at the top; one trail and two driveway-type roads are accessible from the cul-de-sac. After a compass consultation, we chose the trail that ducked into the woods to the east. Although we were not sure at the time, as the trail isn’t marked, it was indeed the “Middle Bench” trail that we were looking for. It’s one of a series of three trails that run parallel to the southern shore. I would like to add at this point that we had two maps (both provided above) of the trail system on Hornby. Neither map had every trail name listed on it, but by using both maps, a compass and a few good guesses we managed pretty well.
After a short section of level, hard-packed singletrack, we began another long climb. The climb took some cardiovascular effort although the trail remained technically easy. We were soon treated to some very nice views of Denman Island and Vancouver Island to our right. According to Jeremy’s recommendations, we were looking for a switchback to our left that would put us on the “Upper Bench” trail. Eventually we came to an intersection of three trails that Jeremy hadn’t mentioned. It was a little confusing, but there was a definite switchback continuing up the mountain to our left. After some discussion and a photo, we chose to follow the switchback.
If chugging up tough climbs had become an indication of the correct direction to ride, then we were still heading in the right direction. After a short but intense ascent, the trail (Upper Bench) became a little technical in its transition to higher ground. Several sections were loose pack and required tight and precise maneuvering as there was a steep drop off to the left. After negotiating one of these sections, I turned to wait on Kelli. As I watched, she slammed hard into a downed tree. It looked like a strange game of chicken between her and a tree. The tree won. OUCH!
After this short transition area, the trail leveled out a bit and began paralleling a steep ridge that looked like it would be acutely painful to tumble down. The views from the “Upper Bench” trail are incredible! We really enjoyed the sweeping vista of Denman Island and Vancouver Island with its snow capped mountains lining the horizon.
We passed one junction of trails and continued, slightly uphill, to a second junction. Luckily Kelli noticed a sign for “The Way”. It was the next trail that Jeremy had mentioned we should ride. As we were about as high as we could get on Hornby Island, it was no surprise, but a great relief, to start descending. “The Way” was immediately different than the other trails we had been on. It twisted through huge moss covered trees, over roots and water breaks. I found it thrilling! Kelli mastered riding over the small water breaks and was actually riding very well.
After two nice descents we came to an unmarked junction. I checked my compass and made my best guess. We decided to turn right and head east. It was at this time that we encountered the only other riders on the trail system that we would see this day. We didn’t know what trail we were actually on until later. As we came to a junction with the “Northwind” trail, we noticed a sign that indicated we had been on “Four Dead Aliens”. We then took “Northwind”, which is a fire road.
As we continued downhill, we passed trail junctions for “Test Tube”, “Washing Machine” and another trail or two. We then encountered Strachen Road. After passing Marylebone Road, we came to an unmarked junction with Central Road. For reference, Central is the first paved road we encountered. Once again, after checking my compass, we turned right onto Central in order to head towards Ford Cove, which is close to the Denman Island Ferry terminal. After a short climb, we headed downhill fast! In a few seconds we found ourselves at the bottom of the hill at Ford Cove. According to our map, there should have been a trail near the bottom of the hill that would take us back west towards the terminal. After doubling back a short distance up Central Road, Kelli spotted the trail we had missed during our speedy descent.
According to Jeremy, this was the “Beach” trail. It was named for obvious reasons. Although not exactly on the beach, this wonderful singletrack wound through the woods at the beach’s fringe. “Beach” trail was very enjoyable to ride – relatively flat with undulations and short slightly technical sections. We could hear and see the ocean’s waves crashing on the pebbled beach as we pedaled through the forest. “Beach” trail is the first of three parallel trails that run east to west along the southern part of Hornby. The “Beach” is first, then “Middle Bench” higher up and finally “Upper Bench” at the other elevation extreme. These trails gave us a great overview of Hornby Island – from the mountains to the sea. Returning to the terminal, we stopped at nearby Thatch Pub for some tasty grub and some cold suds before catching a ferry to Denman Island and retracing our ride back to the Vancouver Island Ferry and ultimately our car.
We had ridden 26 miles and spent pretty much all of our day doing so. I wouldn’t have had it any other way for the first time riding Hornby. We could have paid more and brought our car onto to Denman, which would have given us more riding time on Hornby, but we would have missed out on the beautiful road riding on Denman.
Trail snapshot:
Trails ridden: (loop)
- On Denman Island: Lacon Road to McFarlane Road to East Road and the Hornby Island ferry terminal.
- On Hornby Island: Mount Road to Middle Bench trail, Upper Bench trail, The Way, Three Dead Aliens to Northwind Trail (fire road), Stratchen Road to Central Road to the Beach trail and ending at the Denman Island ferry terminal.
- Back on Denman Island: East Road to Denman Road to the Vancouver Island ferry terminal.
Distance: 26.6 miles total. Approximately 16 - 17 road miles on Denman Island, 10 - 11 trail and road combination on Hornby Island
Outdoor Travels Rating: 4.5 out of 5 bikes
Difficulty: From easy road riding to a little (5%?) advanced. Overall an intermediate ride that's physically strenuous due ascending several hills.
Thumbs up:
- Scenery is second to none. You’ll ride through forests, along beaches and see snow capped mountains in the distance.
- The journey is fun. Riding four 10-minute ferries and pedaling along quiet roads make for an interesting ride.
- Thatch Pub is a good place to enjoy a brew and some post-ride food on Hornby.
Thumbs down:
- It was fine for us, but the amount of riding uphill may not suit everyone.
- Lack of a ONE good trail map. We had two maps (linked above right) that when referenced together almost made sense. There are good maps reported to be available on Hornby Island, although we never found one. Use the big map (1st one linked) for getting in Mount Geoffrey Park, the other (2nd) to navigate once inside the park.
- Lack of signage on trails and some roads. Not all trails and junctions are marked. Also, not all roads have good signage at intersections. A map and compass are essential for all but the most knowledgeable of the trail system.
Lessons learned:
- If your time allowed for riding Hornby Island is short or you have a real aversion to road riding, you can take your car (for a larger fee) to Denman Island and drive to the Hornby ferry terminal and park. This will save you 16 miles of road riding on Denman Island.
- The maps we used of the trail system on Hornby Island are sort of accurate. One has some, but not all trails on it and one has the rest of the trails, but has no trail names listed on it. It's tough to get lost on a small island. Once at the top of the mountain on Hornby, just ride down! You may not end up where you wanted to be, but you can find your way back with...
- a compass - comes in handy for navigating the confusing-to-the-first-timer trail network.
- Don't miss the boat! The last ferry leaves Hornby Island at 6:00 PM. A watch will come in real handy too!
- The (total of) 16 miles we rode on the roads of Denman Island was well worth the effort.
