Greenbrier River Trail Log
June 1999
by Christopher Burk
Day 1
Since the Greenbrier river Trail runs basically North/South without the ability to make a loop, hiking the trail requires either transportation at both the start and end of the hike or hiking in and backtracking out. We opted for the former. Fortunately, Dana had a contact around Marlington that was nice enough to pick us up and drive us to the beginning of our hike.
We decided to access the trail at Beard and hike north to the car in Marlington. Total mileage 16 miles. A little longer than our pervious hike, but over a 1% grade it shouldn't be a problem.
When we arrived at the trail access point, we met a Boy Scout Troop heading south on the trail. After a quick conversation about the trail and scenery and the customary pre-hike group picture, we set off.
Because the GRT is an old railroad grade it is wide and level, which has its good points and bad points. Its good because it is very easy to hike and almost impossible to lose the trail. However, when you get passed by several bikers and about every eight miles or so there is a small trail access parking lot, you feel rather foolish hiking with a two-day pack and gear. It kind of shatters that whole isolated wilderness feel.
From our access point, the first mile or so of the trail ran right next to the river. After that, the trail drifted away and traversed past huge fields and farm houses. In fact, there were times when the trail seemed to run right through someone's backyard. Again, that wilderness feel is lost as you pass swingsets, gardens and cows. But aside from the yards and parking lots at trail access points, the GRT still offers some beautiful vistas and wildlife. One of our first contacts with wildlife was not something we expected. Several places along the trail we found snapping turtles. Considering how dry the weather had been recently, we were really surprised to find the turtles that far from the river. We guessed they must have come up there to lay their eggs.
A little further down the trail we came across a large black snake lying in the middle of the trail. Unlike the turtles however, it looked like the lack of rain had taken its toll. He was very lethargic and looked dehydrated. Considering he was sitting out in the open, it would only be a matter of time before some hawk came down and made a meal out of him. Other than a deer standing on the trail, that was about all the wildlife we saw.
Just short of Seebert we came to the western entrance to Watoga State Park. Since there was a bridge that crossed the river and a nice place to sit by the water, we decided it was time for lunch. The fact that it was almost 12:30 probably had something to do with our decision as well.
Anyway, after an enjoyable lunch on the bank we decided to be adventurous and wade into the river. It wasn't very deep where we were and the river was pretty calm as well. Of course, looking back now I remember those things we learned in science class. The calmer the water, the easier it is for algae and other slimy things to grow on rocks. But at the time none of those things occurred to us. While none of us actually fell, there were several near misses and each step was an adventure in balance. Needless to say, we didn't venture out very far.
So, after our little foray into the river, we set out on the trail again. It wasn't long before we felt extremely stupid backpacking this part of the trail. For about a mile between mile marker 45 and 50 the GRT literally runs through the town of Seebert. Granted Seebert is not very large but when you can walk less than 200 yards off the trail to a convenience store and buy a coke, you start to wonder why you packed all that food and gear. Live and learn.
Even though we felt very funny walking into the store with our backpacks (and got some very odd looks as well) the coke was a nice change of pace.
If we considered hiking through Seebert a low point during the hike, then one of the high points would definitely be about four miles north of Seebert. There is a really cool railroad bridge located there. Not only did we think the bridge was neat but from our vantage above the river we could see some huge fish below.
Well, after watching the fish for awhile we set out again. About a mile after the bridge we came to a nice campsite. Set back from the trail, secluded with a nice view of the river. We debated about camping there but instead decided to press our luck and see what we could find further down the trail. After all, if we didn't find a nicer one, we could always come back.
Three miles later we found another site. (Thank God, considering I was wearing new shoes and envisioning a six mile roundtripper was not a pleasant thought.) This one wasn't as secluded as the previous one and wasn't as close to the river but it did have a major plus. Right next to it was a huge cliff and rockslide. We could easily climb to the top and look out across the river and the nearby mountains.
We set up camp and, as tempting as climbing the rocks looked, we opted for a swim. The river was about knee deep where we were and had several large rocks. There were two in particular that gave us an idea. They had created a small chute in the middle of the river. We thought if we clear out some of the submerged rocks and help channel more water through, we could increase the chute and actually ride it down river.
After some minor excavation work and tail bone bruises we got it to work. Well, sort of. The only problem was trying to keep you feet pointed down stream. As you got to the sections where we redirected the water by the rocks, your feet would continue straight into the rock while the rest of your body would be pushed around by the rushing water. Before you knew it you were either going backwards or face down in the water. But it was fun anyway.
We must have spent about two hours playing in the river. Besides being very pruny, we were hungry. So we changed out of our wet clothes, laid them on the rock pile to dry and set about cooking dinner. Of course there was that slight tangent when Dana decided to climb the rocks buck naked and proclaim himself "King of the Rocks" but that's another story.
The nice thing about our campsite, or any campsite along the GRT for that matter, is the fact that it had a picnic table and steel fire pit complete with grate. Of course we no longer needed the grate we brought but, like so many things on this excursion, hindsight is 20/20. Regardless, in no time at all we had a nice fire going. Actually, I should rephrase that. We had a white-hot fire going. I don't know what dead wood we found to burn but whatever it was, it put out some serious heat. We could barely get close enough to turn the food.
After dinner, we climbed to the top of the rocks to watch the sun set. While up there we invented a new game. "See if you can throw a rock into the fire ring." We were probably about 150 yards away and about 150 feet above it. This was one of those game when at the time sound great, but when you look back later you think, "What the heck were we thinking?" Although our tents were fairly far off to the right of the ring it never occur to us that rocks don't bounce straight. Fortunately none of us wiped out the camp. None of us ever made it in the ring either.
So, after climbing down in the dark (another what were we thinking miscalculation) we called it a night. So we thought.
I have no idea what time it was when we were awoken by a very deep, guttural snort. I don't even care what time it was. All I know is that it was a sound I had never heard before and it was about 100 feet away. While Jeff and Dana discussed what it might be, I lay there as quiet as possible. I was formulating my escape plan for when it attacked the noisy ones.
Needless to say, it didn't attack. In fact, the next thing we heard almost sounded like a steam train running through the forest. It was a rhythmic chugging sound. But that was all we heard, no crunching leaves, no snapping twigs or anything.
I have since then encountered other bears in the wilderness and have caught a couple specials on the Discovery Channel. Armed with my new knowledge, I would have to say it was a rather large adult bear that came into our camp that night.
Day 2
After the bear, we slept fairly soundly until morning. There was the constant barking of dogs from the farmhouse across the river, but that was about it. We ate a nice leisurely breakfast, broke camp and hit the trail again around nine. We had less than six miles left to hike so we were in no real hurry.
The last part of the trail we hiked was probably the best part. It had several panoramic views of the river and very few spots of "civilization" invading nature.
About two miles into our hike we picked up a companion. We had passed a couple of people down by the river with a dog. For some reason the dog decided to join us. We figured it belonged to the people we passed and it would head back sooner or later. Apparently not. The dog traveled with us for the next three miles.
It was actually pretty fun to watch him. He would stop for a second or two, hear or smell something and go bounding into the underbrush. A minute or two later he would reappear a little further down the trail. Once or twice he came out behind us and scared the crap out of us when he ran back up.
With the dog entertaining us, we hiked on. We enjoyed the beautiful overlooks of the river and the pleasant serenity of the forest. It was great, until about a mile or so south of Marlington.
As the trail approaches Marlington, it traverses some parks, passes a few baseball diamonds and runs by a lumber yard or two. Now, I guess that since the trail offers direct access to the parks and baseball diamonds it makes sense it would be in this condition. And I also understand, and agree with making trails accessible for people from all walks of life. But when you have been hiking for about four to five miles with a full pack, the last thing you want to do is hike the last mile on asphalt! Of course, on the other hand, it summed up our hike perfectly.
We had discussed the fact that during the entire hike, we never felt really "removed" from civilization. Whether it was a barking dog, a farm house or the occasional parking lot and road, there was always some reminder that it was close by. And as we hiked through Marlington's city park and down street passing people on their way home from church, we finally realized that we didn't care if we looked ridiculous or odd, we had fun. However, after a mile of hiking on asphalt and cement, our feet were not as cheery.
