Hiking
Dolly Sods Wilderness
Davis, West Virginia
It's always good to have a goat with you when you're hiking with a four-year-old.
06/2001 - by Christopher Burk, Outdoor Travels
Day 1
My best friend Mark, who lives in Oklahoma came to visit and go hiking with me. The only way I could swing it was to take my son, who was four at the time, with me. So Mark, my son Adrian and I pile our gear into our Pontiac Aztek and set out for Dolly Sods.
I picked Dolly Sods to hike because it offers the most diverse amount of terrain. Mark had spent a couple of years living around Boulder, CO and I wanted to show him what wild, wonderful West Virginia has to offer. Our plan was to drive up on Friday evening, hike about a mile or so in on the Blackbird Knob Trail and set up camp for the evening. The next morning we would follow Blackbird Knob Trail down to the junction between it and Red Creek Trail. The next day we would simply reverse the route back to the car.
Unfortunately, about an hour outside of Dolly Sods I realized that we needed to modify our plan. Because we didn't leave as early as I had planned, we were going to arrive at the trailhead too late. Instead of starting all the way up at Bear Rocks, we needed to start down at Red Creek and work our way up to the high plateau region. It also meant that our distance changed, instead of around six miles total, we were now looking at over twelve. Not a big deal to Mark and me but certainly a long distance for a four-year old to hike. But I knew if it got tough, Mark could carry him. (Of course I didn't tell Mark about my contingency plan.)
We finally arrived at the trailhead with about an hour of daylight left. After a quick pre-hike photo, we set off down Red Creek Trail. We figured we could hike about a mile before having to stop for the night and our calculations were correct.
After about a mile we found a nice clearing to pitch the tent. We had already had dinner on the drive up so all we needed to do set up the tent, hang the food and climb into our sleeping bags. But like any other hiking trip I have taken, what seems simple never is. The problematic task this time was hanging the food. Not a difficult chore by itself, but add to it the fact that by now it was dark and the job starts to take on a whole new meaning.
Armed with a mini-maglite and headlamp, Mark and I found a suitable tree and attempted to toss the rope over a branch. After several attempt, and several mad dashes to escape the falling carbineer hidden in the dark we finally succeeded in hanging the food. Fortunately for us, we left a flashlight with Adrian so getting back to the tent wasn't that difficult. Once back to the tent, we climbed into our sleeping bags and called it a night.
Day 2
Because of the distance we needed to hike on Day 2 with a four-year old, we got up just past sunrise. Once we retrieved our food and had a nice breakfast, we started to break camp. Adrian was very excited to go exploring in the woods but didn't understand why we were packing up the tent. It had not occurred to me that he had only been car camping before and didn't realize we were not going to be coming back to that spot. Whether or not he truly understood at the time or not, I'll never know, but regardless, he shrugged his shoulders and got ready to go.
The first mile or two of the Red Creek Trail is fairly level and easy hiking. However, after that it becomes somewhat like a roller coaster. It works its way up the side of the ravine created by Red Creek before dropping back down to cross the many tributaries the feed into Red Creek. Much to my surprise and delight, Adrian had no problem navigating the fairly steep, rock-strewn terrain.
About three miles into our hike for the day, we came to our one and only steam crossing. We searched for a possible place to rock hop and after not finding one, started to get ready to wade across. We decided the easiest way to cross was for one of us to go first, drop off their pack and come back for Adrian. Since I was the one with river sandals, I volunteered to cross twice. Actually it was three times, over, back and over again. Anyway, we crossed Red Creek without incident. Although once on the other side, Mark commented that he needed to bring sandals when hiking from now on.
The next part of our hike was the most difficult. From here our route would take us up Red Creek Trail to the Breathed Mtn Trail junction then up Breathed Mtn Trail to the high plateau region. According to the topo map, the rise along Red Creek Trail is fairly gentle however the first part of the Breathed Mtn Trail goes from around 3,500 feet elevation to over 3,800 in less than half a mile. Adrian was starting to drag about half way up Red Creek so we decided it was a good time to stop for lunch.
Lunch was an excellent idea. It renewed everyone's energy as we once again started our climb to the high plateau. As we reached the junction with the Breathed Mtn. Trail we discovered that the topo map was correct, sort of. The first part of the Breathed Mtn. Trail was extremely steep. However, what the topo map couldn't show was that it was a huge rock field. I though it would spell the end of Adrian's fun, but I was wrong. To him it was a new challenge and game.
As we slowly made our way up the trail, Adrian told me he had to go to the bathroom and asked where it was. It had not occurred to me that this was Adrian's first true wilderness experience and never had to go to the bathroom outside. No big deal except Adrian had to do more then just pee and here we were standing in the middle of a rock-strewn hill. But being creative people, Mark and I found a deep hole, made sure it wasn't some animal's lair, and built a nice rock toilet. Apparently it wasn't nice enough for Adrian though, because even after five minutes of sitting there, he couldn't go.
Once again we set off up the trail. As the trail broke out into the high plateau region two things happened, one good and one not so good. The first thing was Mark's reaction. He was amazed at how quickly the terrain changed. One minute we were hiking through a hardwood forest and the next thing you know we're in a huge open field covered in heather. The second thing was that Adrian tripped and cut his hand. It wasn't a bad cut, but to him it was. We bandaged him up and set off again however I think the combination of the last hill and his fall were enough for Adrian. He started slowing down and actually stopped several times.
After about ten minutes of Adrian's starting and stopping we decided we needed to amend our hiking plan. According to the map, there appeared to be a small connecting trail between Breathed Mtn and Big Stonecoal trails. We could take that trail and cut out about a mile and half from our hiking distance. The only problem was we weren't sure exactly sure where we were on the map so there was a chance we could have already passed the trail. Mark decided to hike on ahead of us and see if he could find it. Adrian and I would rest for a little then follow.
After about a ten-minute rest, Adrian and I set off. Rather then stopping and waiting for us, Mark was going to hike so far then turn around and start hiking back towards us. Because of that, I figured we would probably run into him again in about 15 minutes. When 15 stretched to 30 I began to worry. What if Mark took a different trail and we missed him. What would we do if we didn't meet up again? Each of us had different parts and pieces of essential gear. The only thing that kept me going was the fact that I occasionally noticed Mark's boot-print on the trail.
Forty minutes had passed before we finally did meet up again. Mark had found something ahead that could be the connector trail but he wasn't sure. Regardless of whether it was or wasn't, Adrian had had enough. He wanted to stop and camp right there. The only problem is that if we camped there, we would have almost seven miles left to hike the next day. So Mark hoisted Adrian onto his shoulders and we set off again.
Unfortunately, what had found was not a trail, just an open section between the trees. At this point we made a decision. We would follow it for as far as it went then, between the maps and compass, should be able to bushwhack the rest of the way to the Big Stonecoal Trail. As long as we stayed on the right compass heading, we have to come across the trail. The only problem was because the tree branches were low; Mark couldn't carry Adrian on his shoulders. Adrian would have to walk.
He lasted maybe five minutes before he sat down again and refused to move. Without hesitation, and because there were really no other alternatives, I picked Adrian up and hoisted him on my shoulders. We continued on, taking periodic compass readings to make sure we were still headed the right direction.
Because I had hiked Big Stonecoal Trail before, the terrain started looking familiar to me. After working our way around a stand of pine trees, we stopped in a small clearing. I looked one direction, didn't notice anything and then turned and looked the other way. There it was, a cairn! We had found the trail. In fact I was standing on the trail.
It took us about another 45 minutes to reach the junction of Big Stonecoal and Dunkenbarger Trails. It turned out we were much farther up Big Stonecoal than we realized. No big deal. We found a nice secluded spot away from the trail and set up camp. All Adrian wanted to do was build a fire and roast marshmallows, but firewood was rather tough to find. We had to search high and low for enough acceptable firewood. But in the end, Adrian got what he wanted and was in bed asleep with ten minutes of finishing his marshmallows.
Day 3
Getting Adrian to bed the previous night was easy; getting him up was a different story. He just wanted to stay in the tent. We ended up packing everything up and literally taking the tent down around him. It wasn't until we needed to actually pack up the body of the tent that he finally got up.
We packed up the rest of the gear and started back towards the car. Adrian was OK for about the first 20 minutes, and then he would sit down on every large rock he could find along the trail. Since Mark and I both knew that it would take us forever to get back to the car at this rate, I once again hoisted Adrian on my shoulders and started down Dunkenbarger Trail.
Dunkenbarger Trail is a relatively narrow trail that cuts through several large pine and rhododendron thickets. It isn't very steep but is very wet and rocky. There are several sections where you literally have to rock-hop through extremely marshy sections. Mark had a good pace going and I was following right behind him. As we stepped from rock to rock, my front foot was coming forward to take the spot vacated by his back foot. I was just praying the Mark didn't suddenly stop. Between the rocks and the added weight of Adrian on my shoulders, there would be no way I could stop before plowing right into him.
Happily, Mark didn't stop. We made good time down the trail. We decided to stop and take a break when we reached the junction between Dunkenbarger and Little Stonecoal Trails. I also finally got Adrian to eat a breakfast bar during the break as well. Mark and I switched and he carried Adrian the rest of the way down Little Stonecoal Trail.
When we reached the end of Little Stonecoal, we had one last challenge, getting back across Red Creek. I knew where there was an easy place to cross; the only problem was trying to get Adrian down the extremely steep bank to the water. In the end, we worked our way down to Red Creek by following Little Stonecoal.
As we sat on the other side, changing back into our boots, Adrian was once again having fun picking up rocks and throwing them into the water. I guess the breakfast bar finally hit him. From this point on Adrian was fine. We no longer had to carry him and he made it all the way back to the car without stopping.
I asked Adrian if he wanted to go hiking again and after a couple of seconds of silence he replied no. He later changed his answer and said yes as long as we didn't hike as far the next time. But all he wanted to do right now was go to McDonalds.
Trail Snapshot
Trail(s) Hiked: (loop) In: Red Creek Trail to Breathed Mtn. Trail bushwhack to Big Stonecoal Trail; Out: Dunkenbarger Trail to Little Stone Coal Trail to Red Creek Trail
Distance Covered: 13 Miles
Outdoor Travels Rating: 3.5 out of 5 Backpacks
Thumbs Up
- Both Mark and my son thoroughly enjoyed the area and the experience.
Thumbs Down
- Because of the popularity of Dolly Sods, it can be difficult to find suitable firewood around some of heavily used campsites.
Lessons Learned
- A four-year-old's hiking range over demanding terrain is around six miles. If you're planning on hiking further, I suggest bringing a Sherpa to help carry the kid.
- If you are in bear country and plan on hanging your food, find a suitable tree in the daylight. Searching in the dark is not fun.
- I can actually hike over rough terrain with 60 pounds on my back. (Pack-weight and son combined.)
Nuts & Bolts
Location: West Virginia's Tucker and Randolph counties
Size: 10,215 acres
Directions:
From the East: Take WV 28/55 south out of Petersburg, WV. One mile past Smoke Hole Caverns, look for the brown Forest Service sign on the left side of the road pointing to the turn-off to the Wilderness area onto State Road 4 (also known as Jordan Run Road.) Follow the paved road steeply up a fold in the hills. At the first "S" turn in the road, look for the turn off for FS 19 on your left. It is signed and easily located. This will give you access to the southern part of the Wilderness area at it's intersection with FS 75. Or you can bypass the FS 19 turn off and continue on State Road 4, you'll arrive at the second access into the Wilderness at FS 75 after roughly 7 miles. The turn off is to your left with a church on the corner. This will give you access to the northern part of the Wilderness.
From the West: Take US Route 33 out of Elkins, WV for approximately 25 miles. At Harmon, take a left onto State Route 32. Follow Route 32 north to State Road 45 (Laneville Road.) Turn right and follow SR 45 ten miles to the Dolly Sods Scenic Area. At Laneville and the boundary of the National Forest, SR 45 becomes FR 19. Major parking areas are located at Laneville and Red Creek Campground.
- Forest Roads 75 and 19 are not plowed. Winter travel is not recommended. The Laneville Road (State Route 45) is plowed from State Route 32 to Red Creek.
Activities: hiking, berry picking, hunting and sightseeing
Admission: currently none
Contact: United States Forest Service, Box 1548, Elkins, WV, 26241 (304) 636-1800
Maps & Stuff
Trail Photos
Lots of great photos to give you a good idea of what hiking here is like!
